IT Nerd of 30yrs and avid hobbiest of genealogy, geology and science in general.
Sincerely sounds like your cpu fan doesn’t have a good connection with the cpu.
Shut it down, unplug, remove the heatsink fan (hsf), clean top of cpu and bottom of hsf and apply new thermal compound as 5 dots (center and edges) to the cpu.
Then remount the hsf and let sit for 15 minutes before powering on again and monitor temps.
Attribute 202 (Percent Lifetime Remaining) is a good indicator of ssd life remaining. It’s a percentage based system where 100 = 100% ala new and 0 = 0% ala “It’s dead”.
Keep an eye on that attribute and number as it decreases. Consider making adjustments on writes to this drive so you can prolong its eventual 0 dead result and as always: make backups.
That and the last thing you want to do is destroy your gut bacteria colonies. That’s why fecal transplants are still a thing, many already lack gut bacteria.
Windows 10 Enterprise is probably the least bloated version, it’s a company version after all and lacks a lot of the crap. Windows 10 debloater is a nice powershell app that does a good job too though.
16GB is easily comfortable and can even game on with zero issues.
Let me know how it goes.
Zero chance. ltsc is a per license subscription cost. no company or person would give those out to anyone for free no different than giving a stranger your Netflix account.
You’ll find that Kingwin to be useful at multiple things, I promise.
I have something like 20,000 Windows 10 keys, send me a private message and I’ll set you up with a legit iso and key if needed. Otherwise, have fun nerding out with your new toys!
Just ignore anything that says it’s for one hdd and one ssd as you can use those trays to make a 2.5" ssd appear as a 3.5" hdd any day of the week.
If your intent is just one os and one data drive, get 2 small ssd drives for different OS’ if you want and one 4TB drive for data.
As for good cheap drives, there’s none better than the Crucial MX500 for 1/2TB
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B078211KBB/
When it comes to quality cheap 4TB, the following brands are best:
edit: Note that the MX is higher quality, but older, which means more reliable at the cost of speed whereas the BX is less reliable but cheap and faster. The team group is pretty much the same as the BX, but has a better cache system and thus a bit more reliable than the BX
“No drivers or software required, supports hot swap, plug and play.”
Meaning, it’s OS irrelevant. The reason it shows “support up to windows 7” is just because it’s an older unit, but will be perfect for your older rig.
Edit: Buy it, never look back, enjoy swapping operating systems!
as an alternative, here’s one that you just push the drive into and eject out, plus it supports newer sata modes:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Universal-Tray-Less-Backplane-Enclosure/dp/B00M3WNWB2
or like the one we are discussing
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Universal-Tray-Less-Backplane-Enclosure/dp/B00475DQ6Y
Note the reason these are more rare now a days is because of higher capacity drives. No need for most so now these are usually geared towards system integration and testing beds. Still, it’s perfect for dual boot.
I think you need to change the dell bios setting to init pcie instead of onboard video first. If that doesn’t work, the problem sounds like the power supply isn’t enough.
With that caddy, it’s press a button and they disconnect from sata.
I would bypass all that and try to find a removable caddy like this one, they’re just not as popular as they used to be:
Esata (external sata) card:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Port-Express-eSATA-Controller/dp/B00952N2DQ
Using esata, the drive would be using external sata (esata) allowing you to boot from any number of ssd drive caddy’s using esata:
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-eSATA-Enclosure-NST-266SU3-BK/dp/B014LQOG58
While possible, the issue is the molex connectors from your power supply as they often have an overlap which would butt up against the data cable and it may not fit snuggly.
You’re better off either using esata (most systems have an estata connector) with an external esata caddy, but if you do not then I would actually recommend a sata to usb caddy like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Basically just install any 2.5" SSD into it and plugin into the back of your pc usb port. It’s not as fast as esata or direct sata, but great for backup and archive.
Exactly. I have 2 x WD Blue 2TB drives in mine that use the same cables as a regular Sata hdd (primary and secondary actually as I also have an m2 drive). Heat isn’t an issue and they both work in that corsair caddy perfectly.
Edited again and added a corsair cheap option that I personally use on mine. Works with any sata power and data cables.
SSD trays are your friend
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dual-Mounting-Bracket-CSSD-BRKT2/dp/B016498CK0
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Adapter-Mounting-Bracket-Interface/dp/B01LZWX6PD
https://www.amazon.com/General-Drive-HDD-Adapter-CADDY/dp/B00F3QFKNS
Buy any 2.5" ssd and install it in any number of 2.5 to 3.5 trays available.
EDIT: And yes, your sata connection will work fine.
Might as well be a gambling site: It was a startup bank with no Federal backing (FDIC) that appears to have promised greater returns than traditional banks by investing your money and giving you some of the profits back from dividends.
Still, it was a startup that wasn’t fully vested nor backed federally to secure people’s deposits. Sad.
copy the contents of that 296GB partition somewhere, delete the entire hda9 and recreate it, hopefully sucking ouo those spare 2+1MB, then copying the data back.
You have too many partitions to begin with though and beyond that, those 3MB may be just outside of alignment with the other partions, meaning you may not be able to reclaim them.
Regardless, it’s 3MB, not a big deal.
Awesome! Glad to hear it.
Better would have been:
Handful of users complain about 3rd Party Cables Melting Their 5090FE.