This is why I end up doing so much DIY.

A job that takes a professional half a day could take me a whole weekend.
But having to play “how likely are they to fuck it up, and how much of a pain will it be to fix” drives me up the wall so much, I often just buy the tool and do it myself.

My time to do it: 15 hours, plus £200 in materials.
Cheap tradesman: 8 hours, £450 total, non-zero chance I’ll have to rip it out and re-do it myself anyway.
Specialist tradesman : 5 hours, £900-1200 total.

So it either ends up being lots of work, a gamble, or lots of money. Quick, good, cheap, pick two!

Reminds me of the time I didn’t realise that my underfloor heating had week/weekend heat settings, and woke up to a 24 degree basement.

Helpfully, because bitcoin gets all the traderbro attention, monero has actually ended up being (relatively) stable because it has more of a purpose.

Or from the sounds of it, doing things more efficiently.
Fewer cycles required, less hardware required.

Maybe this was an inevitability, if you cut off access to the fast hardware, you create a natural advantage for more efficient systems.

Very nice! I’ll have to take a look at this.

So far, I’ve only done some things with variable heating targets, boosting if one room falls behind, and minor adjustments on presence detection.

What’s the pricing like on these normally?

It does look a lot more solid, and less nickable!

A very quick glance at the internet put it around £700 for their home one, a fair chunk more than the Reolink one (£70 ish when I last looked).

This is roughly what we have in the UK.

For electricity, the standing charge is 61.6p/day, then 23.3p/kWh.
And gas is 29.6p/day, then 6.1p/kWh. (The numbers vary, and you can choose to lock rates for the duration of a contract).

There has been some discussion of it in recent years (after it doubled, thanks Putin).
Whether it is fair for people using less energy…But in reality, everyone has similar 100 or 60A connections to the grid.
There are tarrifs for very low users, where the standing charge is combined with the first kWh.

Once I’m off the gas boiler, and on a heat pump, I may get my gas disconnected to save the standing charge.

On a tangent, as you may be interested, we now have the option of flexible electricity pricing that tracks the wholesale rates for the day. Usually, it’s cheaper, sometimes even negative. Link.
However, this week there has been a lot of expensive energy, so it’s been butting up against the £1/kWh limit!

“How do I get this working in 22.04?”

“Previous question answers this.” Tagged as best answer

“No, the previous question answers it with a method that was removed in 22.04”

silence

You’d probably get better coding advice in the comments.

The biggest one was probably a combo of having an anemometer, and heat/humidity sensors in each room.

When it’s cold outside, the top floor of the house (loft conversion) loses more heat. But it loses significantly more heat when it’s cold, and the wind is blowing parallel to the floor joists.

I realised that because they’re not perfectly sealed (old house), enough air pressure means that the floor void can easily hit external temperatures, meaning the rooms have cold on twice as many sides.

I will (eventually) get some suitable insulation in them to stop this.

Well done!

I too love the fact that HASS is a common platform for everything.
It makes duct taping lots of different devices together into automation so much easier.

Not just 240v, but in-wall 240v!

Not even a chance to smell the magic smoke.

I’ve had a temp/humidity temperature in all house rooms for a few years now, and it’s dead useful.

Balancing the radiators and TRVs so everything heats up evenly.

Spotting anomalies (top floor loses a lot more heat when the wind is blowing)

And setting the flow temperatures for the radiators, as I can see the rate of heating compared to outside temperatures.

I knew I shouldn’t have given away my 7850!

For a low tech solution, you could use cold chain labels.
They indicate when a temperature threshold is breached. So you’d at least know when a vial was spoiled. They’re not cheap, mind, when you only want a few.

But I know that’s not solving the problem in the way you wanted to!

If you only need to know when a threshold is exceeded, you could make something simple using (for example) an esp with a PAYG SIM card and a temperature sensor.

Then set it up to SMS an alert when temperatures go out of bounds. And pick the SMS up in HASS (various ways). That way, you’ll only be spending a few cents each time there is an issue.

You could also use mobile data if you felt more fancy, and post straight to HASS.

I look forward to getting my hands on one of these! Just need to work out where to put it in the house first.

And possibly waiting for a POE version. But that’s a nit-pick.

Is it possible to test this out using a phone or PC? I really like the idea of local voice assist.

I’ve eliminated 2.4GHz wifi in the house for this reason.
The only downside is, I really need to get a couple more WAPs installed.

HA has been dead handy when I occasionally need to use an old device, as I can flip the second radio on from a dashboard.

Amazingly, this isn’t the first time I’ve heard of this happening.

Charging for a redundant line, then discovering that it actually wasn’t one day when it goes down.

Don’t forget more length restrictions because the copper can’t keep up.

Plus if you’re using udder milk, it’ll make the compost bin stink.