I think you can do that with AntiMicroX.

I wasn’t aware that there’s a paid version. Based on their website it does look like they have a lot of standard stuff locked behind Pro. Is it just like an additional repo or something? I’m also not too keen on the fact that the upgrade doesn’t carry over to the next major version.

I’m pretty sure that’s Zorin. I’ve never used it myself, but from what I’ve heard it might be a good choice for OP’s person.

I was doing some quick research and saw someone suggest installing each OS with the other drive disconnected. That way you can first get each one working individually and there’s no chance of one messing with the other’s bootloader.

Do you have the os-prober package installed? I haven’t used Fedora in over a decade, so I don’t know if it’s a default or not.

Support for Archos devices was removed from daily builds in 2020.

I have a Thinkpad T480 that I’m very happy with. I believe it’s around 7 or 8 years old, but it works great. Unlike most laptops, it doesn’t have soldered RAM, so it’s easily upgraded. One downside is that most units don’t come with a lot of storage, so you’ll probably want to get a larger drive. I spent around $200 on mine plus another $100 for the SSD. It’s a great inexpensive laptop that’ll last for years.

My understanding of what happens when using separate drives is that one drive is given priority in the BIOS/UEFI menu and then people just use the device menu when using the secondary drive. Windows really only cares about its own drive with this setup, so the bootloader on the other drive is safe. I’ve never actually done this myself since the only system I dual boot on is my laptop and it only has one drive installed. To answer your second question, I just use my bootloader (GRUB in my case) to select which OS I boot into.

Some people recommend having Linux and Windows on entirely separate drives since Windows doesn’t always like to play nicely with Linux. The only issue I’ve ever had with them on the same drive was the time Windows ate my bootloader when upgrading from Vista to 7. Another thing is that you should install Windows first because it will eat the bootloader (as previously mentioned) if Linux is installed first. I also recommend keeping a flash drive with System Rescue CD installed handy in case you have to repair the bootloader.

Edit: Typo

Thank you for letting me know. I wasn’t aware since I’ve only every used it on Linux.

I wouldn’t recommend Clementine since it’s unmaintained. You might want to consider Strawberry instead, which is an updated fork of Clementine.

That having been said, I actually use Audacious because I like using old WinAmp skins.

This is what I do with my mom and her boyfriend. I’ve had them on Linux for a few years now and neither have managed to break anything.

Fun Fact: Jamaica is the only country to not have red, white, or blue in its flag.

I did some research and the Samsung Galaxy S9 or S9+ (but only certain models, specifically the ones with Exynos processors) seems like a good option. They’re officially supported by /e/OS, have an SD slot that supports up to 400 GB, have a headphone jack, and can be easily found for under $300.

Have you tried Rockbox? It’s not a device, but an alternate firmware for a number of popular and obscure media players.

My only other suggestion is picking up a slightly older Android phone and just leaving it in airplane mode. I like Vinyl Music Player. I think Vinyl does all the things you want.

Cinnamon or Xfce are more similar to Windows’ user interface. Between those two, Xfce is more lightweight than Cinnamon. MATE is more for people who liked GNOME 2 and want that interface over what the current GNOME is.

Cinnamon would probably be the most friendly as a new user, but I personally haven’t used it in years and I’m not familiar with its current state.

For PS2 you could get a RAD2X cable. The RAD2X cables are based on RetroTINK. It’s not cheap, but it’s probably the best option for you since you only have a couple consoles. Do note that this also requires a mini-HDMI cable and a micro-USB cable to function.

For Wii you could get a dedicated HDMI adapter like this one. This specific adapter is the one recommended by RetroRGB. If your television is old enough that it has component input, then that’s also a good option.

Edit: I forgot to mention that both of the Wii options I mentioned don’t upscale. It’s just getting the best picture out of the Wii’s native capabilities.

I use Strawberry for mine.

Yo dawg, I heard you like emulating, so I put an emulator in your emulator so you can emulate while you emulate.

The best I can offer for your original question is to delete everything you don’t want and then run something like BleachBit to shred the data. As for the second question, if a computer originally came with Windows then it should automatically activate after reinstalling.